1962 Shasta Renovation
This blog is about my adventures in renovating my 1962 Shasta Compact.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
How I met my Shasta trailer
Before I saw my little compact I had never laid eyes on a Shasta before and never in my wildest dreams did I think I'd want, much less own, a trailer. My boyfriend and I were visiting our hometown and one of our first stops was his grandmother's house. As soon as we drove up to her house I was transfixed by the unusual looking camper. I couldn't believe how small it was and it had wings of all things?!!? I walked around her over and over again taking in all the details; the slope of the roof, how she looked like a ham, the very bad paint job, the ugly AC sticking out like a sore thumb and the bug like tail-lights that just looked weird, how tiny she was and those cute little painted wings. It was love at first sight. I knew I had to have one and although I knew my boyfriend would be hesitant I was sure I could convince him for us to start looking for one like it online to buy since he was also curiously examining the trailer. After 30 min. or so of hanging around outside looking at it we finally went to the front door. The whole time we were inside I couldn't help but think of that little trailer parked outside and how I could convince my boyfriend it would be a good idea to get one of our own. I was itching to look online for this Shasta trailer with wings, but I didn't want to be rude by having my nose in my phone. While we were catching up on family news I was racking my brain with a way to casually ask about the trailer outside, but my boyfriend beat me to it [which I rejoiced at and took it as good progress towards convincing him for us to get one of our own]. His grandmother mentioned that she was considering selling it since people kept stopping to ask how much she wanted for it and she had just purchased a bigger trailer anyway. It was so hard not to start bouncing in my seat! I was overwhelmed with excitement and all the possibilities. We live fairly close to the beach and this camper would be perfect for weekend getaways without having to pay for expensive hotels. The conversation then veered onto a different subject, but I couldn't really follow anymore my brain was in overdrive. How did it look on the inside? Was it in good condition? Would our car be able to tow it? How much did she want for it? Did she already find a buyer? on and on my thoughts circled around the trailer. As we were getting ready to leave a few hours later the conversation steered back to the trailer and we all went to get a look at the inside. It looked like it had an undetectable extension charm put on it, it looked so much bigger from the inside! It had a queen sized bed, a functional kitchen complete with fridge and a restroom too! It was almost perfect, all it needed was a shower... I asked her how much she was asking for it and she said she'd had offers over five thousand as is. My <3 immediately sank. It was too rich for our blood =[... and then she added she'd sell it to with family pricing more than 50% off. I tentatively looked at my bf to see his reaction. We exchanged a look and I knew we were both on the same page... and then he asked "would you give it to us in payments for a year"? and she said yes! Boom, we had a deal! We finally finished paying her off and although we wanted to move her to our place the HOA wouldn't allow us so we tarped her up and settled her in at his Mom's place until we could figure something out. We have used her a couple of times and she is great for the beach just like I knew she would be. She needed only a few upgrades here and there like a shower and a paint job, but it could wait. Unfortunately, hurricane season was unkind and caused a leak around the vent which in turn caused moderate warping of the inside. We just got word that the man we hired got her fixed [she's at his grandma's house under her supervision, this same handyman that has worked on her own trailer so I have hope he did at least an ok job]. I'm a perfectionist so it's bothering me to no end that I don't know the quality of his work or what exactly he did to fix her since I wasn't there to look over his shoulder and document the materials he used. I really hope he did a good job and she'll stop leaking and will be structurally sound enough for her to travel a few hours to our home so I can get started on fixing her up.
Saturday, June 1, 2013
vent: original or post-production?
I've been trying to figure out if the vent on the lower right hand side is original to the trailer or a post-production add on. Do you know?
RV moisture prevention
I found this website for the great article about 2 years ago. The link no longer works and I have been unable to find the updated link for the original author. I don't know if the person who originally posted this online has simply disappeared from the internet or just moved to a different domain/url. If you are the original author would you be so kind as to give me your new website? The information you provided has proved vastly valuable and informative. {to make this clear, I did not ever or now claim to own or have written the below content.
http://www.phrannie.org/moisture.html [this link no longer works unfortunately. =[ if you are the author, could you please comment on your updated website if it is available? if you aren't the author but have run across this person's updated website could you let me know? thanks
Updated 4/2002
Handling Moisture in RVs
phred Tinseth © 1999-2002
Reproduction permitted
Web site: http://www.phrannie.org
NOTE: A section on Rubber Roofs is in the middle of this page. A
section on Dry Rot is near the
end of the page.
First things first. You've got to keep moisture from getting in. After
that, you deal with what you make on your own.
Emergency repairs:
There are emergencies, and, then,
there are big emergencies.
Simple emergencies—broken window, tear in skin or roof, cracked vent
cover, etc. Most of these can be temporarily patched with "aluminum duct
tape." NO, not that grey cloth crap.
• Aluminum (AL) duct tape is
aluminum tape with a peel-off sticky back (from building supply stores). If you
put it on a reasonably clean, dry surface, it'll work for months. Every RVer
should carry a roll—it's good for lots of other things.
• Heavy duty aluminum foil. NO,
not super-market stuff, but the kind they use in food service places (or use
more layers of the cheap stuff).
• Cardboard (or equal) from a box
in a dumpster.
• A roll or two of "Kool
Seal" brand "Kool Patch-White Patching Tape" (Kool Seal #
40-321-T from any RV store). It comes in black too, but avoid it if you can, it
makes a mess.
If the problem is simple (a crack
or tear) aluminum tape will usually get you by. If not, cut off a length of
"Kool Seal tape," press it down well (it even works on wet surfaces)
and cover it, if you can, with overlapping layers of the aluminum tape.
"Kool Seal Patching Tape" is fantastic stuff. A bit expensive, but
worth it when you've a problem.
More complicated emergencies—Bigger stuff (like a shattered
vent cover, antenna torn off, air conditioner knocked loose by tree limb) take
a piece of cardboard, thin paneling, whatever's appropriate. Wrap it in
aluminum foil. Tape seams. Stick "Kool Seal tape down around edge.
Lay/fold/bend alum covered cardboard over the disaster. Tape again.
"Regular" Leaks: Sealing, Caulking and Coating
If you can take something that's
leaking apart, do it. Then seal the mating surfaces and put it back together. A
"seal" can be a gasket (like under the air conditioner) or an RV
putty tape (doors, windows, roof vents and the like) or "Kool Seal
Patching Tape" (lots better that RV putty tape). However, smearing globs
of caulking all over everything is not sealing—and it doesn't work.
"Caulking" is something
you reserve only for things that can't be fixed properly in the first place (or
that you're too lazy to fix properly). Caulking is also "insurance."
First you seal something (like a roof vent); then, for insurance, you caulk it
to keep moisture from getting at the seal that does the real job.
"Coating" is the last
step. After you've applied your sealing material and assembled things properly
(without a lot of holes and gaps) and caulked (if necessary); then you coat the
whole surface if appropriate.
Coating can be as simple as paint
(prevents weathering, ultraviolet decay, rust and makes the thing look decent);
or more complex (elastomerics that provide more durability and insulation) or
more complicated and expensive (like custom-fitted vinyl sheeting—the so-called
"Rubber Roof").
Fixing: There's no point in doing any of the above unless you first
repair structural defects. Impossible to cover all variations, but here are
some that many people don't consider:
Roof Edges and Corner Trim:
In many RVs (especially older
ones) this is nothing more than a thin aluminum extrusion with screw holes and
a vinyl insert. Siding and roof sheeting raw edges are simply butted together
and fastened to the frame (usually just with staples). A strip of RV putty is
laid over the joint and the trim strip is screwed on. Generally, sufficient
screws hit something solid enough to hold everything together and compress the
putty to prevent leaks (for a while).
As time goes by, the putty gets
squeezed out (most rigs have this icky, dirty stuff oozing around corners and
windows). What remains dries, then cracks and gaps appear. Water leaks in
through the edges and screw holes.
The steel screws, staples, water
and, often, aluminum parts set up a corrosive (electrolytic) action that
compounds the problems of the water—that dribbles down through the interior
walls and rots everything out (including the flooring). Insulation absorbs the
water, loses all its capacity to insulate and soon the whole frame gets wet and
stays that way.
Water entering at the roof joint
is especially troublesome because it runs toward the lowest point in the
ceiling (usually at air conditioner, light fixture or a roof vent) before drips
start. The RVer then climbs on the roof and spreads caulk all over above the
place where (it seems) water drips—but not where it came from—which does no
good at all. The vinyl insert in the trim, contrary to what people think, is
not there to prevent water from entering. Even though it's doubled over at the
top, screwed down and has half-a-pound of caulking smeared all over, it's
nothing more than a cosmetic to hide screws.
Roof Edges and Corner Trim
The fix: Remove vinyl insert and throw it away. You can get
it new by the foot at any good RV store. Trying to reinsert old stuff just
looks crummy.
Examine screws as you remove them.
Generally, they'll be stock, #8 size, steel screws and some will be corroded
and rusty. If so, throw them away also. You can replace them with better
quality plated-steel screws or #9 aluminum hex-head (unusual oversize but
deliberately made that way—sold in RV and boating stores—to fill up previously
used holes). Better are stainless-steel screws (expensive, but can often be
found in electronics and "surplus" stores for about $3 a pound).
Carefully pry siding and roofing
away just enough to peek in and look for evidence of leaks. If you find major
damage, you can either: Put everything back together and get rid of the rig;
or, repair and reinforce (which you might want to do anyway). My travel trailer
had all of these "borders" replaced with 1-1/2" x 1/8"
thick aluminum angle. Expensive, but it formed a "cage" and the RV
sort of held itself together. If you have some water damage (but the thing
isn't falling apart), you can get a product called "Git Rot" in
boating stores. A liquid you mix and squirt or inject into wood, it chemically
converts wood cellulose into an epoxy-like material. (Nice for treating exposed
wood behind motor home skin.)
Clean off the old RV putty.
"409, Simple Soylent Green" and the like, all work well with a
scrubbing pad like you use on Teflon pans. You'll remove the vehicle wax too,
but after this job, you'll need to rewax (maybe refinish) anyway.
An aside: Regular RV putty tape is a gray material in rolls of
3/4" or 1" wide with a crepe-paper backing (it's often called
monkey-poop). It's inexpensive and sold in every RV store. Far better is a
"whiter" putty tape that is much stickier and often has a slick,
plastic paper backing. Only a little more expensive, it is far more effective
(has some "butyl-like" content), doesn't "ooze" as bad and
can be found up to 1-1/2" wide. (If your RV store is "backward,"
find it in boating stores or in heating air conditioning places where they use
it in duct work.)
TIP: When using any kind of this
tape/sealer, it will tend to stick to itself and the backing. Most annoying.
Avoid this by putting it in the freezer for 10 or so minutes and it's a lot
easier to handle (and will still stick just fine).
Once all is done, excess rusty
staples and tacks replaced, etc., (you can get stainless-no corrosion staples
or tacks in large upholstering stores), carefully reapply a strip of the good
putty tape mentioned above. (Don't try to skimp on a $ with 3/4" stuff,
get the 1" wide stuff (or wider where applicable). You can always trim off
excess, but you can't easily add on extra.) Replace moulding and put it back
together.
As you replace screws (with better
grade as above), note previous "bad" holes (with simple pencil
marks). There's no point putting new screws in non-existent holes. Just drill a
hole near to it and seal the old one. Similarly, if you're in a suspect area,
drill new holes and add more screws.
An Important Step:
• Before you insert a screw, drill
a pilot hole (if new) and fill the existing, or new, hole with caulking.
• You don't need a big gun full of
crud for this. You definitely DO NOT need the cheap, ordinary
"silicone" caulk used by most RVers. Sun (ultra-violet) light decays
it. It won't adhere to many surfaces and it's hard to remove if it does stick.
• What you need is the
"Quick-Leak-Check" brand or something similar (that doesn't dry out
and can be "unscrewed" from later) in a small tube that you can
handle easily.
When you put in new screws, DO NOT
over-tighten! (Especially with aluminum screws that will easily snap off if
overtightened.) All you want to do is get this largely cosmetic strip
"snugged up" nice and firm. The minute you hit the road, the whole
rig is going to start flexing. You want it to be allowed to flex without
opening new holes.
Finally, insert new vinyl flex
trim.
• Do not let it get stretched out
too much. It will eventually reassume its natural length and you'll be left
with gaps.
• Look around your RV park. Note
even new RVs with gaps in trim because idiots installed it. (A new home for
bugs.)
• Better, lock it in place at the
top or an end with a screw and leave a few inches of slack at the other. It'll
look funny for a few weeks (what do you care?) but you can trim it and screw
the bottom down after it's settled in position. Do you now caulk the edges? No,
you shouldn't really need to if you did the job right.
Awning supports:
Awning supports are difficult
because they are almost never sealed properly. Installers usually (but not
always) make a big deal out of locating structural members inside the walls for
attaching the (main) end pieces (upright supports). Then they just screw them
in through the outer skin without any gasket, backing sealer or caulk in the
holes. Further, corrugated aluminum and fiberglass skins are usually badly
crushed in the process. The thin moulding strip that holds the awning fabric
against the wall (along the top) also has no backing and the many screws are
just run through prepunched holes with no effort to locate what other
structural members might be behind there.
If you're going to have an awning
installed, you might get an installer to do the job right, but it's unlikely.
Usually they'll agree with everything you say, then ignore you and do it
"quick and dirty." You'll be better off getting a friend or two to
help. It's easy if you read the instructions. It'll take up to two days (if you
do it properly and spend some time figuring out where the backing behind the
skin really is) instead of a couple of hours; but you won't have any leaks and
it will be secure. (A friend and I were sitting at the RV park when the truck
showed up -- from one of the really, really big RV stores -- at a neighboring
site. The men got the job done quickly -- too quickly -- and while they putzed
around measuring the outside, we never saw them go inside the RV. We knew we
were in for a treat and sure enough, when the techie reached up with the hook
and pulled on the awning, it came right off the RV.)
Awning leaks are really nasty,
because water goes into the inner wall and usually isn't detected until it's
done severe damage. Sometimes water will work its way down the inner wall
(through all those screw holes that aren't really screwed into anything).
Often, water from awning leaks eventually works its way into the inner RV wall
through a window frame. Most RVers then assume the frame is the source and
spread caulk all over the window and wonder why it won't stop leaking.
If the awning is already
installed, removal and reinstalling is a real chore. This is a case where you
might get away with caulking if you do it right. Remove each awning strip screw
(just one at a time), fill the hole with caulk and reinsert a better screw as
above.
CAUTION! Most of these screws only go through a thin aluminum
or fiberglass skin. If you tighten them too much, you'll just make a bigger
hole. You can repair with an insert or pop rivet, but you don't want to.
If you're using a quality sealer
in an easily-handled tube with a fine tip, you can also apply just a bit around
the edge of each screw head. Examine main support bolts before diddling with
them. You may be able to remove, caulk hole, and replace one at a time, or you
may be able to partially unscrew and apply caulk to threads and retighten.
Carefully caulk around the edge of
support arm plates. Don't try to apply huge globs at one time. Try to get a
thin bead into, not just all over, crevices; then go back and add more later.
Similarly, apply a thin bead of caulk along the top and bottom of the long
horizontal strip.
Another superior caulk for long
runs and tight crevices is "SEAL ONCE." It's very sticky but
"creeps" into thin cracks. It also works on wet and oily surfaces,
which helps. It stays tacky for days; don't fiddle with it until it sets. It's
probably the most effective caulk made. Sold in some RV stores and many boating
stores (used in wet bilge compartments).
Door and window frames
Door and window frames are fixed
like the above with some added steps. They're made to be opened, so joints
aren't going to be weather proof. In good windows, a very small amount of water
will enter, but it should remain on the glass or frame and exit through small
"weep" holes at the bottom of the frame. Weep holes can't work if
plugged with dirt/caulk or you deliberately plug them to keep out bugs. Some
condensation will also form on glass and metal frames, but a well-constructed
window should drain this through weeps also.
Often, windows leak around the
edge of the frame simply because the manufacturer cut the hole too big. In the
worst cases, the siding and frame don't even touch (once again, you'll see
enormous amounts of caulk smeared around because people are too lazy or inept
to remove the window frame and do the job right).
One way to fix this is to: Remove
window and frame. Treat any rot with "Git Rot." Cover the edges of
the hole (after everything is dry) with aluminum duct tape, overlapped, so the inner
framework is completely covered and the tape overlaps the inner and outer wall
a bit. The idea is to prevent moisture from getting into the inner wall and
insulation. In case of a future leak, water will either run back out to the
outside, or onto the inside, finished wall where it will easily be seen before
it does any damage. Once this is done correctly, replace window and frame. It's
easy to trim off excess putty and, then, with an "X-Acto" or similar
sharp blade, score the aluminum tape and peel off any that shows.
Another way to do this fix is to:
Treat rot then shim/fill the inside of the hole as above and apply the aluminum
tape (or don't fill the excess hole and do the following—I'd do both): Extend
the outer lip of the window frame itself by adding 1/8-inch thick by 1-1/4,
1-1/2 or 2-inch wide aluminum flat bar.
If you lay the pieces out
carefully, cutting edges to match, then pop-riveting the pieces to the frame,
you'll end up with a big frame and crude corners. Once put together, though,
you can round off and smooth the corners. Automotive paint stores sell a
"self-etching aluminum primer" that bonds quite well to new and old
cleaned aluminum. If you clean aluminum properly and use this primer, you can
paint the frame with matching trim paint and it will hold up at least as well
as a new window.
Place the window in the hole,
measure carefully to the actual surrounding framework (there will be something
around the hole), then drill holes through the "new" frame and screw
it to the wall (not just to some inner frame that sandwiches the newer, cheap
windows together).
Before final assembly, seal the
frame with good putty tape, carefully applied, and you won't need any caulking
here either. To do a really nice job, since you're more or less building a new
window anyway, instead of just flat aluminum along the top, use aluminum
channel or angle instead. The thing will be ultra-sturdy and you'll have a
built-in rain protector.
Doors: Are done like windows, but because the whole inner frame is
going to be constantly banging in and out, you have to be extremely accurate in
measuring the placement, in making sure you have square corners and securing
the door assembly. Few RVs have door cutouts with accurate corners, so most RV
door assemblies are forced into place and are crooked. Eventually, they get
sprung out of shape and don't operate well. Careful triming and shimming can
correct this.
Luggage compartment doors
Luggage compartment and similar
doors usually leak because they weren't installed right. Remove them, clean
things up, patch holes and cracks, squeeze a bit of seal in screw holes,
carefully putty tape and reinstall. The bottom frame of compartment doors
should be kind of like a window, with weep holes so water can run out.
Unleveled rigs, cheap doors, and sloppy installation can let water run in
instead of out. This is especially common in reefer pop-out doors.
Before you reinstall any of these
frames, examine the edges of the hole. Tubing, wood 2 x 2, ply and foam—all
will allow water to infiltrate. Again, treat for rot, use aluminum tape and
seal properly just as for windows. Don't do a sloppy job just because the
inside won't show as it does in the living area. It doesn't do any good to have
a nice living area if the compartments underneath are rotting away.
Sewer vents
If they were installed properly,
there will be a bit of pipe penetrating the roof with a sealed flashing. Some,
though, will be cut off flush with the roof and have a large hole all around
them and a big cap covering the whole mess. It's obvious, when you look at one
of these, that there's no way the thing won't leak (so many RVs have wet
closets).
If you cement a pipe coupling to
one of these flush-cut things you can add a bit more pipe. Then you can cut a
piece of aluminum sheet to cover the old hole and seal a proper flashing around
it. This isn't complicated but can require some detailed work. For example;
there's no pressure on these pipes, so you can cut the coupling to slip up and
down anywhere, carefully measure its eventual height with an allowance for the
thickness of a piece of plywood that will go around the pipe, rest on the top
of the coupling and, in turn, support the aluminum patch. It's a little more
work, but it will be sturdy.
You do need some kind of lid
over/above sewer vents to keep out crud and critters and help provide a draft
to pull gas out of the tank. Most cheap RV store caps work okay and you can get
nice aluminum ones in building supply stores. The "venturi" types in
RV stores (look like a "T" with one end bigger than the other)
provide a better draft (so does a regular "T" and it's cheaper).
To do a really nice job and really
ventilate a tank, consider topping vent pipes with "solar ventilating
fans." These look like mushrooms, have a 4-inch base (easily adapted to
any size sewer pipe), include a small fan and single solar cell. Anytime
there's sun, gas is being drawn out of your tank. Whatever you cap your pipes
with, make sure you coat it. Sunlight (UV) eats plastic. Any coating, even
plain paint, will keep your plastic from rotting away. (This is also necessary
down along the under edge of your rig, in case you wonder why valves and
fittings break for no apparent reason.)
Air conditioners:
Air conditioners are really pretty
well designed. They have to be open to the elements, so everything is just
mounted on a big pan with drains in it and any water that gets in just goes
back out (or should). Lift off the outer cover (shroud) and make sure the
drains aren't full of crud. Weather, dirt, insects and small birds and critters
have easy access to the inner macinery of the A/C. You should clean up the area
once or twice a year.
While the cover is off, examine
the sheet metal box that covers the blower and air chamber. Seams usually have
a gasket or putty material to keep what little rain that might collect from
dripping down into the housing inside the RV. It's easy to reseal these but in
many cases all that's needed is to cover them with the aluminum repair tape
mentioned above, allowing moisture to run down into the pan.
The whole air conditioner is held
on by nothing more than a large gasket and about four big nuts and threaded
rods reached through the A/C inside frame. (Has to be that way because it moves
and vibrates.) Most leaks occur at the gasket and fortunately can usually be
stopped by doing nothing more than gradually tightening the main nuts/bolts,
(one of the few things in an RV that's usually easy to fix).
Replacing an A/C gasket is easy
but strenuous. Simply remove the main nuts/bolts, disconnect the wiring
harness, go up on the roof and lift/tilt the thing from one end, not straight
up. It's easier when two people do it and you should have someone down below to
make sure wires and such don't get hung up. New gaskets don't need added putty
and stuff, but you do need to make sure the roof edges around the hole are
clean and don't have gouges or dents that water can run through.
Roof vents:
Roof vents will leak, and the
slightest crack, that you can't even see, can suck water in, even uphill, by
capillary action from differing inside and outside air pressure. This can give
you a fit and can be complicated by a leak from somewhere the ceiling panel
joins.
Vent frames are usually
putty-taped to roofs and, some cases, you can see the putty seam from inside if
you remove the trim piece. If so, cram a putty knife in the crack about
1/4" to 1/2" repeatedly all the way around. If the leak stops, you
might be OK. If it moves to a new place, you need to replace the vent and putty
tape, not just smear caulk all over.
For leaks between rafter and
inside ceiling, usually you can gently pry the ceiling panel down about 1/4
inch (look for staples and tacks) and hold open with pencils or screwdriver
tips. As you create this new low point in the ceiling, you may get a whole
bunch of water. If so, leave wedges there for several days (might take weeks),
no matter what other steps you take to fix it, so it'll dry out. In some cases
you might have to open a whole seam. It's awful, and will look bad, but the
alternative is major surgery—which still might be necessary.
This kind of leak might be in the
vent also, You ought to remove and reseal or replace it (depending on what you
find). If the leak stops, you lucked out. If not (actually simultaneously), you
need to spend a lot of time on the roof, poking, probing, pressing anywhere
there's a seam, strip or something coming through the roof -- the things
mentioned earlier.
Replacing roof vents:
Replacing roof vents is easy—it's
just a lot of work. Usually the hardest part is removing caulking (that
shouldn't have been there in the first place) and getting the screws out. Once
the hole is open, scrape all the old stuff away at least enough to clear the
new vent frame plus an inch or so. Poke around. Are the rafters wet? Why? Dry it
out. Can you beef it up with Git-Rot (above)? Or short pieces of aluminum angle
in the corners? Maybe build a lip all around the hole with aluminum? Lay the
new vent on the hole. Do screw holes match up? Do you want them to? Are the old
ones rotten? Actually, you're better off if new screw holes don't match. But
seal the old ones before installing a new vent.
Use a new, aluminum framed vent if
you can. If you use cheap plastic frames, you'll just have to do this all over.
Aluminum lids are best also, but some people want the light through a plastic
one (until the sun eats them or hail destroys them). The "Lindeen"
style vent covers/hoods can help a lot. Also, better RV stores now carry an
"unbreakable" plastic vent lid. Expensive, but with a good warranty. I've
used these for two years, through two hailstorms, with no leaks or breakage
(but no base-ball-sized hail either). Once the hole is prepared, all you need
to do is carefully apply quality putty tape and evenly and firmly screw the
thing down. Do NOT overtighten! All you'll do is create a new leak. Let the
thing sit there a few days. You can go back and tighten it a little more later.
Don't smear caulk all over the edge and screws either (that comes later if
needed at all). Don't be in a hurry to replace inside trim pieces. Leave the
hole bare awhile, let it dry and easily look for leaks. Trim rings aren't much
good anyway. Almost all of them just slip up inside the vent frame. Leaks then
drip down behind them, where you can't see them, until they start coming
through the ceiling. If nothing else, when you install trim, run aluminum tape
around the inner hole (it won't be seen later) where rafters meet ceiling
panel, so that incoming water will run directly in and you can see it before
you ruin a ceiling. Better yet, make your own trim pieces-something that
funnels water in the right place, that matches your ceiling better, that you
can attach fans, decorative items or condensation covers to.
Lights, water entries, antennas, etc.
Running and other lights, ladders
and grab bars, water entries, antennas and such usually have an ugly ring of
caulk smeared on them. They still leak and you can't see it and moisture is in
there rotting your rig away. Most of the cheap stuff, like lights, can easily
be removed and replaced with bigger (to cover the crummy old edges), better
(sturdier and some with gaskets) lights at surprisingly low cost.
Patch old wires and screw holes first. Look for scraped wires
while you're at it. If possible, fold wire down from hole, tape it in place
temporarily and seal the hole with good stuff like Seal Once. Build up layers a
bit at a time on big holes. Make a miniature awning out of a small piece of
aluminum tape. Rub it good above the hole, but just sort of lay it over the
hole and wire. (Anything that does get inside the light fixture ought to run
out the bottom.) If you're careful, you'll be able to fold the wire back up a
bit when installing the light and further keep water from running into the
hole.
Unless the light is top quality
and has a gasketed lens, don't try to seal the lens. The idea is it should be a
little loose so water will run out as fast as it gets in. You also need to get
in and change the bulb easily. Just a little dab of sealer on opposite sides of
the lens will keep it from falling off.
Depending on what kind of
"skin" your rig has, you can get nice watertight gaskets in
automotive stores. Also look for "threaded
inserts" under various brand names in auto and hardware stores. Some
are compressed into place with a pop rivet tool, other are screw-compressed
with a wrench. There's a large variety of thread sizes and depths. Once
installed, you have a secure threaded nut attached to the skin, not just a hole
that keeps getting bigger with age. Put a dab of "Loc-Tite" on the
machine screw threads and you can firm up things so they won't leak and can be
easily removed and replaced without screw holes getting ever bigger.
Shop for gasket material by the square foot. Varying thickness and densities
(so it can be squeezed against uneven surfaces) are available. (I got a soft,
but water-repellent piece of vinyl, really quality stuff, from a shoe repair
shop cheap. They use it to resole moccasins.) A firmer piece is perfect for
behind a grab bar, luggage rack and ladder bolts, antennas, and flag holders.
Computer "mouse pads" make a nice gasket material, cheap.
Fender well covers:
Fender well covers are a key
source of interior wet rot that most people never think of—until they're
digging around under a cabinet and find a huge mass of green crud growing
there. First, remember that these things, like wheel covers, are strictly
cosmetic and often not needed unless the fender well is really crudely built.
Most people automatically run a bead of caulk along them. It does absolutely no
good and just makes the thing hard to remove when you have to work on your rig.
And more time to remove it = more cost if in an RV shop. If you must use these
things, don't try to seal/caulk them. Instead, use the threaded inserts
mentioned earlier—no leaks and EZ on-and-off.
However, the edge around the
actual wheel well, where side, bottom and wheel well meet, might have really
shabby seams. Putty tape and aluminum angle can usually leak-proof these. It
won't look too swell, but fender well cover will conceal it.
Wire and cable entry:
Wire and cable entry through a
roof or wall: Usually, some fathead drills a hole, pokes the wire through, then
smears on huge globs of silicone. How sad. I once watched a satellite TV
"technician" adequately install and seal the main antenna. He then
prepared to drill a hole right through the roof alongside it and poke the wire
through with the intention of running the wire, exposed, along the ceiling and
down the wall to a shelf. What an idiot! The refrigerator roof vent was only a
couple of feet away. All he had to do was enter through the side of the upper
reefer vent cover (no leaks) then run the wire down the back corner behind the
reefer and through the wall to the very same shelf. (He got very upset when I
pointed this out.) Was it just too much time and trouble to snake the wire
around some corners? Probably. Did he just not give a damn? Probably. Is he
still doing this (like the manufacturers who run wire and pipe aimlessly
through your valuable cabinet space)? Probably. I find that it's very
profitable (and most enjoyable) to spend an hour or so sitting on the roof,
drinking beer and just thinking about the possibilities before I start chopping
holes in things.
Solar modules:
See above for considerations on
running cable to them. A couple of modules/panels, regulator and cable, etc.,
are going to cost over $1,000. Do you want to install it sloppily and create
leaks? Sit on the roof, drink beer with a couple of knowledgeable friends and
make a plan.
(Good place to hide out from
spouses for awhile too.) Notice, also, I said spouses, not wives. I find women
are as adept at this kind of abstract stuff—maybe more so—than men. Men want to
jump right in and start chopping holes. Then they have to do it all over again
later. Women don't know they're not supposed to be involved in this, so they do
it anyway, paying attention to planning and detail, and usually do it
better—and that's no horse hockey.
Consider that a solar module
weighs about 10 pounds, whereas an air conditioner weighs about 150. If the A/C
is held down by only four bolts, do you really need some massive structure for
a few solar modules? No. (See RVers' Guide to Solar Battery Charging, Noel and
Barbara Kirkby, aatec Pubs., for details. Kirkby, owner of "RV Solar Electric"
and the most knowledgeable of dealers, also has a solar "Systems
Installation Guide." Only $5, refundable with a purchase. You need to buy
it even if you get your equipment elsewhere. No other dealer provides—and few
know of—the info in here that will allow you to install solar panels securely,
with no mess and no leaks. Most highly recommended.)
RUBBER ROOFS (followed by more on other roof coatings)
Possibly (but arguably) the best
coating is a professionally-applied layer of vinyl sheeting (the so-called
rubber roof). It's expensive, but it is, in effect, a new roof—IF INSTALLED
PROPERLY! Careless installation, even by a professional, can end up with you
being even worse off. To install it properly, everything is first removed from
the roof and replaced when the job is done. The problem with this is that when
basic problems are not repaired before the new roof is laid on, the new roof
isn't affixed properly, the vinyl is cut improperly and things are replaced and
not sealed properly as described above, you're right back where you started.
More on Rubber Roofs:
I'm getting lots of letters from
readers on the subject. I expect the reader queries will increase as more and
more used RVs with rubber roofs are passed on to others.
"Dicor Corp." makes most
of the EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) material used in so-called
rubber roofs. (Dicor calls it Brite-Ply.) Literature is provided with new RVs.
Most people never pay attention to it, if the dealer even bothers to pass it
on. Used RVs also seldom have the information.
You can get information sheets
from Dicor Corp., PO Box 1806, Elkhart, IN 46515. (219) 264-2699. Best way is
to use their Web site at www.dicor.com for much more extensive and
timely information.
A critical point: It is critical
that no petroleum-based solvents, harsh abrasives, or citric-based cleaners be
used on rubber roofs! Doing so can cause irrepairable damage. (And seems to be
the real cause of most roof complaints, followed closely by sloppy
installations. (What do you expect from installers working for minimum wage?)
Petroleum-based solvents are
especially damaging. They can penetrate the membrane and dissolve the adhesive
underneath. The result can be bubbles or even large, loose patches.
Bubbles:
Bubbles should generally be left
alone, unless there are a great many of them, which indicates a more serious
problem (like extensive use of petroleum products or a poorly installed roof).
Dicor makes the material. They do not apply it to the RV. The RV
manufacturer (in some cases RV dealers) do that. The EPDM membrane, as supplied
by Dicor, should last 30 or so years (possibly longer than you will), if
properly installed and taken care of.
Most blisters are small, few in
number and are only cosmetic. Since they are on the roof, they are not all that
visible. Cutting slits or poking holes in them and injecting sealer or caulking
can lead to water leaks and further damage. If they are left as is and not
carelessly torn, you are usually better off.
If you insist on fixing bubbles
(and you shouldn't), make sure you use only sealers that specifically state:
"butyl rubber" caulking/sealant.
There are a lot of sealers, caulks
and care products that have something like "Okay for rubber roofs" on
the label. Do not accept that as a fact.
Insist on butyl rubber ingredients
for sealers and caulking.
When attempting to fix (flatten)
bubbles, don't just start cutting away. Get some disposable medical syringes
from a pharmacy. Load one with some of the butyl rubber sealant, carefully
inject some and carefully massage the bubble. Once it's flat (this can take a lot of massaging, hey, I
warned you), put a piece of cling wrap or wax paper over it and put a
weight on it until dry. You might be successful and might not.
One place you can successfully use
the butyl rubber sealant (and really do some good, rather than just screw
around with bubbles) is at the edges of the roof membrane. Roof vents, plumbing
vent pipe holes, roof edges under trim strips, air conditioner openings, etc.,
are all subject to loosening at the membrane's edges. (This is often caused by
a sloppy installation.)
Refrigerator roof vents are
especially troublesome. Installers often cut the opening through the membrane
rather casually. They then fold it over the edges of the vent hole and don't
adequately secure it. Over time, and with the heat that flows up through the
vent, air flow can be restricted (and it doesn't take much to cause the
all-too-common complaint that the reefer isn't cooling properly).
RV manufacturers do (frequently)
an absolutely lousy job of installing refrigerators. Poor ventilation is
(experts say) the primary cause of refrigerator failures. I recently heard of a
refrigerator ruined because the manufacturer simply cut a hole in the roof over
a reefer and let the rubber-covered plywood drop on top of the reefer. No
venting equals no reefer. You might want to see what's really under your roof
vent.
Maintaining the rubber roof: Mild dish washing detergent
(Dawn, Joy, etc.) should do the job unless parked under really grody trees. Use
a mild-bristle brush. Do not use harsh abrasives or a stiff brush. A sponge is
okay for scrubbing, but a brush is needed when rinsing. (Using a sponge when
rinsing just smooshes the dirt around and doesn't get rid of it.)
Full-strength household bleach is
good for stubborn stains (but don't slop it all over, or it will run down the
sides and screw up your wax job).
Dicor makes a safe cleaner. Their
"RC100 Dicor Synthetic Roof and General Purpose Cleaner" works and
attacks stubborn stains when used full strength.
Mineral spirits can help with
stubborn stains, but, you can't spread it over large areas and must work very
fast (spot clean and flush it off quickly) or it can deteriorate the membrane.
Another good protectant is
"303." It will not harm rubber roofs and will keep crud from
accumulating, but, Dicor insists it isn't really necessary. (Does this remind
you of the days when Andy Granatelli sold STP? He finally admitted it didn't
really do any good, but didn't do any harm either.) What the hell, it's your
money. "303" can be used for lots of things.
Something to think about then:
A word often used in discussing
(so-called) rubber roofs is "if." As in rubber roofs
can be dandy:
If the basic structure (rafters, etc.) is sound.
If the ply underlayment is sound and of adequate
thickness.
If the rubber sheeting is carefully laid on without
gouges, cuts, etc.
If done without careless trimming around things that penetrate the
roof.
If done without any nail/screw heads/wood splinters and such left so
that they'll eventually penetrate
the rubber from the underside, etc.
If rubber adhesive is properly applied so bubbles won't appear later
and
edges won't come loose.
If rubber material is properly folded over roof edges, carefully
trimmed
and moulding is properly applied.
If the RVer doesn't screw things up by gouging, scraping, etc.
If the RVer uses the specified mild-detergent cleaning agents
and never
uses a petroleum-based cleaner or
protective coating.
If the RVer reads the material that accompanies the roof and
understands
that there will be discoloration
of the roof, which won't hurt anything.
If the RVer understands that minute particles (dust) from the
roof
membrane will flake off, and
combined with water, make some
dirty-looking marks on the RV,
which are easily washed off.
In summary:
Rubber roofs are not cheap. They
require care. If installed properly and if maintained properly, they can be
very nice and almost leak-proof. The material, if properly applied and
maintained will flex just slightly with temperature and weather and may
(should?) last the life of the RV. However, any deviation from any of the above
"ifs" can be a real
problem.
"Hitcharama RV" in New
Jersey uses a product called "Reliable Cleaner" for all their coach
preparations. It contains Glycol-Butyl-Ether, Non-ionic Surfactants, Sodium
Metasilicate and is water based. Might be okay?
After-Market Kits to "Recoat" a Rubber Roof:
The kits available to
do this will cost at least several hundred dollars ($700 or more?) from Camping
World, etc. You'll have to remove everything on the roof to do the job properly
or you'll have all the loose edges, untreated areas, etc., as discussed above.
If you don't do the job properly, you'll have just pissed away that several
hundred dollars. Preparation of the existing surface is exhausting and must be
done properly. Or you'll have ....as above. A minimum of four coats (of various
substances) are required -- yet more hard labor -- and they all have to be done
right, or ....as above.
If anyone is
considering "resurfacing" an existing roof with "paint on"
stuff, I suggest you first check with a shop that can remove the existing
"rubber" cover and install a new one. If you're a careful shopper,
you may find that they can put on a new roof for only $200 to $300 more than
your resurfacing "paint" job. I don't know about you, but it seems
cheap to me considering all that's involved.
Bonus stuff:
While lurking around the back room
of a place that does rubber roofs, look for fairly large scraps of the
membrane. It makes excellent gasket material for water pumps and sewage
macerators. It's good for covering sharp edges and inserting between things
that rub together. It maintains its flexibility and is good for use as a flap over
outdoor electric
receptacles and leaky upper hinges
on storage compartments.
Other Roof Coatings.
There are a number of
paint-on/roll-on coatings available. Standard, mobile home or RV roof coatings
of this type are not suitable. All they will do is flex, crack, peel and leak.
You must use a coating that is clearly labeled as being an
"Elastomeric." Elastomeric simply means it has a teflon-like
ingredient that allows it to stretch as much as 40% without cracking loose.
Properly applied, in successive coats,
using one gallon per 10 feet of roof length, this stuff prevents leaks and
enormously improves insulation. The key is "properly." First, you've
got to properly seal everything up. Then you have to scrape off the loose crud,
globs of old asbestos coating, flakes and such. Use a cleaner to remove mildew.
Fortunately, you don't have to remove all old coatings, just the shabby stuff.
Good elastomeric will cover a multitude of old sins.
Seams, cracks, edges of patches
and the like should be treated first. Building supply stores will have a 4-inch
wide fiber mesh tape (usually yellow or black) made for this purpose. If you
use the "Liquiply" brand of elastomeric, they have a matching caulk
that comes in gallon cans and caulking-gun tubes. It's the same as the coating,
just thicker.
Spread a layer of this all along
the seam, for example about 6" wide. Embed a length of the tape in it with
fingers, putty knife or similar. Let it dry. Then spread another layer over it
and work it well into the tape. Touching up is easy. Just add more after the
previous layer dries. (If you keep spreading or brushing this stuff too long,
it starts to dry and gets hard to handle.) If you're using the Kool Seal brand,
you won't have matching caulk, but the coating itself will do as well. You'll
just need to spread more layers because it's thinner.
Finally, coat the whole roof with
successive layers. You want a nice thick coat, but don't lay it on too thick at
one time or it'll take forever to dry. The base material for elastomerics is a
latex. If it gets rained on before it dries, you've got a mess. The stuff can
be sprayed on, but you'll get it all over everything. Brushing works well. Some
people use a paint roller for even coats but it's hard to spread because it's
so thick. One gallon per 10 feet of roof length (don't deduct for A/Cs, vents,
etc.) will allow about three good coats, even if you use some for patching
seams.
Properly done, you won't have
leaks and in our test we measured (albeit unscientifically) a 20-degree
reduction in roof temperature during the summer. That's significant.
Is it condensation or a leak?
Is it a leak from outside or
inside? Frequently, people have damp bedrooms and bathrooms, often with a musty
odor. No big puddles, just damp and smelly. The first thing they do is start
running heaters and fans. Then they cover the walls, put in storm windows and
buy sacks of moisture-absorbing chemicals. What they should have done first is
check for leaks.
The Toilet:
The toilet is often the culprit,
but not usually the sewer connection through the floor. If that's the problem,
it won't be just a bit smelly, it'll really be smelly.
The vacuum breaker and the toilet
inlet valve, if just slightly loose, will allow just a bit of water to leak at
each flush. This water is concealed by the cosmetic plastic housing around the
toilet. Little by little, it permeates the carpet. It's complicated by the
toilet being jammed in a corner or up against the wall. Many RVers have never
gotten down on hands and knees and really examined what's going on down there.
Try poking a flashlight in behind
the toilet, then hold the pedal down for about three gallons worth. Feel around
with fingers.
Tub or Shower:
The tub or shower, especially if
mounted above the floor, is another likely place. Many are surrounded by vinyl
wall covering with joints "sealed" by moulding. Again, a little bit
of water, over a long period of time, finds its way down, down, down until
there's a permanent damp area. In many rigs, the entire floor is carpeted
during manufacture and everything is built on top of it. Eventually, the whole
place becomes a giant blotter.
On hands and knees, with a
flashlight, peer under cabinets, remove a few drawers, open outside
compartments, have someone turn on shower and spray around a bit. Look for
evidence of moisture on walls. Examine closely the connection between trap and
drain. Like windows and other openings, don't try to squeeze a bead of tub
sealer along all the seams; it'll just look crummy and won't last. Remove
suspect mouldings, reseal and replace.
Water Lines:
Water lines can really fake you
out, especially where the city water fitting enters the RV. It's usually
halfway up the wall. If the leak is serious, there will be a big wet spot
somewhere. If it's a slight leak, the water may run along the line for several
feet and just slightly dampen lots of places (usually behind cabinets, under
beds and the like). Sometimes you can feel around for this kind of leak. Just
one wet drop on your finger means a leak. Plumbers (good ones) don't rely on
fingers, they use a wad of toilet paper. Any moisture at all will show up.
Most RVs now use the gray, plastic
water line with "Qest" style fittings. These can be fine if installed
properly and not stressed. Connections are made with rings clamped on with a
special tool. RVers often try to fix these fittings, or add on new ones, with
standard hose clamps. This is the way to cause more, or worse, leaks. If you
have this kind of plumbing, it's to your advantage to invest in the proper
tool.
More Inside Leaks:
So far I haven't mentioned
condensation, just water that gets in from someplace and gives the same effect.
In most cases, this kind of thing is what people think is condensation. Actual
condensation is usually taken care of through adequate ventilation. Your door,
range hood vent, furnace, air conditioner, window frames, and several other
places all combine to provide a lot of ventilation.
Even with good ventilation, there
are several in-house activities that can saturate the air with moisture. It, in
turn, condenses on walls and everywhere:
· Washing clothes, dogs and
similar, and hanging things to dry in the bath.
· Boiling lots of water for a long
time (like 6 qts for noodles) without using the range-hood vent fan. If your
fan, like most, is ineffective and noisy, get a good one. You can get 12 VDC or
120 VAC "muffin" fans (as used to cool electronic equipment) that are
very quiet, use very little electricity and will move up to 105 cfm (cubic feet
per minute) of air for as little as $15 from electrical surplus places.
· Running a water distiller in
your house is going to load the air with water. So will the endlessly running
coffeepot.
· Catalytic heaters make water
vapor. As from any other source, it will condense on cool surfaces unless you
ventilate. Odd as it seems, slightly opening a ceiling vent can reduce this
moisture significantly without making the house cold. Another point: catalytic
heaters technically don't heat air, they radiate heat directly to objects (and
people). However, air is full of dust and other particles which get heated.
Running an ordinary fan, at low speed, circulates this warmed air and actually
makes the RV feel warmer (unless the fan is pointed at you).
Circulating air, even in the
winter in a closed RV, can greatly assist in dissipating moisture. Note how
motor homes often use one or two small fans on the dash to remove
"fog" from windshields. The same fans, table fans on low, muffin fans
mounted on the ceiling and pointing along the length of the RV, can all help.
(And in some cases, solve the whole problem.)
Two people in a closed-tight RV,
along with panting pets wee-weeing in a cat tray, wet towels, simmering coffee
pot, convection/microwave (where do you think all that steam goes?) etc., will
pump a lot of water into the air. If you don't get rid of it, you'll have
condensation problems (and the place will smell).
Building Better RVs:
Building better RVs is not a
suggestion, it's already being done. In some cases this results in odd
problems. I examined one new, lightweight, super tight RV that apparently had
such extreme condensation up inside the ceiling that water was dripping from
seams. Lowering a bit of the paneling we found soggy insulation.
Condensation? No. It just seemed
so. A slight leak in the roof allowed water in. The inner ceiling had been
built so tightly/well that it didn't just run on through as usual. But, in that
closed, warm space, it just kept turning to vapor until the whole thing was
loaded with water. Finding and fixing the leak was a problem. Drying the inside
out was an enormous problem. The main point, though, is that condensation
didn't cause the problem; it was the result.
Refrigerators:
Refrigerators don't usually
contribute to general RV condensation, but they can. If the reefer is soaking
wet inside, it might be working too hard and/or have a loose fitting at the
door gasket. Fix it. If it's wet enough inside, the water will run out the
bottom and ruin your paneling, carpet, and contribute to interior moisture.
That's not condensation; that's a leak.
More often, excess water is due to
"dumb" stuff. Most reefers have a tray under the inside fins to
collect water (and most are now self defrosting, so they make water quite
often). A hose is connected to the tray and lets water go through the back of
the fridge where it collects in a cup and evaporates.
Frequently, people don't properly
connect the inside hose to tray and water just runs down inside the reefer.
Also, people might connect the hose but don't fully insert the tray into the
exact position under the fins (often because they put a huge hose clamp on the
hose and the tray will no longer go where it's supposed to).
In either case, there can be lots
of inside water. Instead of checking for the obvious, they go out and spend
money on battery operated air circulating fans and other forms of foolishness.
Unless it's way too hot outside,
the RV reefer should not make so much water that it overflows the evaporator
cup or runs down inside the fridge. Nor should you require added air circulation
inside the thing or up the back of it UNLESS you have a faulty unit, loose
gaskets, have overloaded it with stuff, or keep opening the door for ice cubes.
Similarly, if your cup keepeth running over, you might want to run the hose
outside the rig (old RV tip), but you shouldn't do so without also determining
the actual cause for so much water.
Real Condensation:
If you haven't a leak, haven't
carelessly been making your own condensation, and have ventilated the RV
properly, you shouldn't have any condensation problems. But you might anyway.
Some RVs are constructed so
cheaply, with so little insulation, that outside temps collide, if you will,
with inside temps. If it happens on the outer wall, you get moisture and rot
inside the walls. Inside, and you get sweaty walls. As a worst case, you get
both. The simplest fix is to get rid of the thing. (Next time, become a member
of the RV Consumer Group before buying an RV so you'll be warned of faulty rigs
in advance.)
Some people choose to reinsulate.
It's a job, removing paneling, but can be done. You don't need to remove the
paneling completely in some cases, but can get it far enough away from the wall
to allow slipping in 3/4 inch pieces of urethane foam. Not a lot of fun, but
some of us have done it when we didn't want to or couldn't afford to get rid of
the RV.
Often, a second wall covering will
do the job. Sometimes carpet works. I had one rear room, with minimal heat, and
the walls always felt cool and damp. After carpet covering they didn't. A front
room was well heated and at times very damp. Carpet with a 1/4 inch foam
backing took care of it. However, you need to experiment first before going
through the carpet installation, because you might just be covering up dampness
that's still there, doing its dirty work behind the carpet. Scrap carpet,
temporarily attached, can give you a clue. (See more below.)
There are some very high quality
vinyl wall coverings available. Not just wallpaper, but thick vinyl. In all
cases, the added coverings give better insulation. And they certainly look a
lot better than the cheezy paneling that comes with the RV. (Carpeted walls
make it easy to hang things also. When you move them, you just rub the carpet
and the mark's gone.) Some people cover walls with cork. Works well, but you
get an incredible amount of dirt off it without a protective spray coating.
Metal Frame RVs:
Some of the so-called
"better" RVs have metal frames. If the siding and paneling were
attached properly (over a thin foam-core or similar barrier), you shouldn't
have a condensation problem anyway. If not, the metal frame makes a
"bridge" right through the wall and you'll see wet or damp areas.
These "bridges" often take the form of vertical and/or horizontal
"lines" of cold, damp about 1-1/2" wide (indicating that the
metal structure inside the wall is up against the paneling with no moisture
barrier). Sometimes, wall coverings, as mentioned earlier, work. A test is to
get a roll of the foam-and-aluminum-foil tape with a slightly tacky backing
that is sold to wrap pipes for insulation. If you're lucky, you can tape a few
pieces to the wall to see if a covering works. Remove tape without peeling the
cheap paper "wood grain" and trade the rig in if it doesn't.
Metal Window and Door Frames:
These can be real
"sweaters." Some of the most expensive RVs have compression-type
frames where the outer and inner window, for example, are squeezed together
with screws (and aren't really attached to the RV siding at all). The result is
an instant bridge and moisture. Storm windows generally work, but who wants to
haul around all that junk? Some people have had good luck with removing the
inside frame and covering its inner surfaces with glued-on or sprayed-on vinyl
or foam. Others have succeeded in just putting up good draperies (but not
often). Some have had success with the wood slat and woven yarn window
coverings. Some have "outlined" windows with a wood frame of 1 x 2
inch and fitted the above or pleated shades inside them. Very nice and, if done
with care, like an overlapping edge of lath to go around the ends/bottom/top of
the shade, can provide a total window cover. You'll be amazed how this kind of
window cover can save heat in winter and cool in summer. Some of us have built
things like Japanese-style shoji screens (with plastic, not paper) over the
windows. The point is: Get imaginative.
Doors? Hang a drape on a swinging
rod inside the actual door. It reduces condensation in cold weather. Remove in
warm or leave it and have an extra fly barrier. (Also prevents visitors from
standing there with their nose up against the door.)
Heaters and Dehumidifiers:
Failing all the above there are,
of course, heaters and dehumidifiers. Unfortunately, all are electric,
heat-producing devices. Most are only available in 120 VA. If you've trudged
through all this and corrected all the deficiencies, you shouldn't need them
unless you're parked in a humid swamp. Some samples available in most boating,
and many RV, stores are: Thermo-electric heaters, 8 watts to 25 watts of safe warmth
to eat dampness. There are several crystal-filled bags/jars of stuff available
that soak up moisture.
Definitely not recommended are
simple light bulbs. Dangerous! Especially when used in closets.
DRY ROT (Called Serpula Lacrymans -- more accurately should be called
wet rot.)
You won't find any technical
references that I know of. Most repair shops won't even attempt these repairs
except at great (prohibitive) cost. It can cost more than the RV is worth.
Still, sometimes, for various reasons, people do successfully rebuild such a
mess.
Just a few tips before you get started:
Don't start taking things apart
until you know where the water leaks are coming from!
To do this effectively, you need
to "overpressurize" the interior of the RV. It's simple, but can take
some time. You will seek to have more air pressure inside, than outside. Simply
tape up vacant "holes, cracks or other openings" and/or stuff them
with what's at hand. Then, run a line from an air compressor or (vacuum cleaner
backside) into the RV. It's not critical that everything be totally
"tight."
A more efficient (quicker) way to
do the above leak check is to rent one of the fans used to inflate portable
structures. It has a BIG fan and feeds the air through a very large flexible
hose. You can stick the hose end in a window and plug the excess space with
tape, cardboard, rags, etc., as above.
Before doing the leak check,
you'll need to open some of the inner ceiling so the air can pressurize the
roof. Easier way is to remove trim from ceiling vents and (gently) pry inner
ceiling loose and insert wedges, pencils, whatever to keep it open.
Once the air pressure on the
inside is more than the air pressure on the outside, you go around the whole RV
(sometimes on a ladder) and spray a windex-type bottle, with a mix of detergent
and water, on any possible "leaker" place (like you would when
looking for an LP gas leak). Seams, joints, whatever. If bubbles appear, that's
where air is leaking out -- and that's also where water is leaking IN. (This is
basic high-school physics.) Mark these places.
Your next job is to fix those
leaks! If you don't do this first, and if you don't do it properly, leaks (and
more dry rot) will keep coming back to haunt you in the future. (Fixing leaks
is covered in earlier paragraphs above.)
Aluminum extrusions: These are little more than cosmetic crap that
conceals the crummy way an RV is assembled. Before you actually fix the leaks,
you'll need to remove a lot of the extruded aluminum trim pieces. Do it
carefully, so you can reuse them. Peel off the cheezy, smeared caulking and
putty tape sealer (aka monkey poop) and examine the seams for leak evidence
(per your marked bubble areas from earlier). If you then remove the
staples/nails holding the siding in place at the edges, you'll be able to
"gently" pry the edges loose to a surprising degree (putty knives,
slim wedges, etc.). This allows poking around to see what you really have/don't
have in there.
While you're doing all this, it's
obvious you need the RV under a shelter or have a large tarp you can batten
down during inclement weather. As you go through this drill, the interior
framing should start to dry. While that's happening, you should still be
inspecting and examining.
Don't just initially tear out
anything that appears rotted. Some dry-rotted wood can be "rescued"
-- at least to some extent. The product I use is called "Git Rot" and
is available at good marine stores or from "West Marine" (www.westmarine.com)
or (800)-boating. I recommend you call West Marine and get their "master
catalog." There's a whole bunch of products in there that most RVers don't
know about. "Git Rot" is a two-part mix (like an epoxy, but thinner).
Much dry-rot can be saturated with this. It creeps through the wood and does a
"molecular thing" with the cellulose that's left. If properly done,
the remaining wood is like an epoxy and can be cut, drilled, etc. Added pieces
of wood can be affixed to it and you can, if careful (lucky) end up with a rather
stout structure. Git Rot is tricky to use. Carefully follow the detailed
instructions! West Marine has a few other similar products as well. Another
favorite dry-rot product is "Poly All" at www.polyall.com/wood.html.
Once you open up the outer shell,
and locate the rot, then, before you start using Git Rot (or similar), you need
to open up the inner shell (at appropriate places) as well. Cut away the thin
paneling on the inner RV. Save the pieces for patterns when replacing. Once
removed, you will REALLY see the rot
that might be in there -- and be able to repair it.
Ref: Fiberglass outer skin. If you do the job right, you
should be able to save the outer fiberglass skin (because it's hard to find).
If you're lucky, you'll have a preformed end cap. The entire end cap can be
removed to get to the structure (not hard, just laborious). You'd want to
"beef" the cap up anyway and removing it makes getting to the
structure easier. If you've just got fiberglass siding butted together at the
corners, try to save it. Finding fiberglass that matches your RV's style will
be difficult. First, try the RV manufacturer. Also try calling local RV shops
and ask where the damaged "junkers" go. Check "yellow
pages" for fiberglass distributors (who can refer you to retail sources).
You might call "Wabash National Parts" (800) 621-7949 for a clue.
Also check www.all-rite.com/fiberglasssiding.html for
what they have available.
First, fix the leaks.
Then reduce the water you make on your own.
Then insulate the thing properly.
And, then, you shouldn't
need ext
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